Articles

  • The Irascible, the Hot, the Cold and the Mad

    The Irascible, the Hot, the Cold and the Mad

    The ill-tempered winds of the Mediterranean. Published in The Passenger.

  • Heart of Ochre

    Heart of Ochre

    An unearthly sparkle in the woods leads into a world of colour foraging and the politics of pigment. Published in Perspective.

  • Pure Alchemy

    Pure Alchemy

    My initiation into the endangered arts of bell-founding and metal-casting. Published in Perspective.

  • I became a travel writer by accident…

    I became a travel writer by accident…

    How travel writing and fiction merged to produce Red Smoking Mirror. Published in The Irish Times.

  • Moorish Ghosts

    Moorish Ghosts

    A jewel of the Islamic Golden Age, modern Córdoba has a legacy of cultural collisions. Published in Perspective.

  • Enchanted Visions

    Enchanted Visions

    Red Smoking Mirror, and how alternate history helps us imagine alternate futures. Published in Dark Mountain.

  • Poor Souls: a hike on Aletsch, Europe’s largest glacier

    Poor Souls: a hike on Aletsch, Europe’s largest glacier

    Is walking on the melting Aletsch Glacier a kind of ‘last-chance tourism’? Published in Guardian Travel.

  • The Weeping Woman

    The Weeping Woman

    Great betrayer, or feminist icon? The amazing story of La Malinche, Nahua interpreter to Hernán Cortés. Published in Bookanista.

  • Wilderness Years

    Wilderness Years

    The life and unsolved disappearance of the vagabond Everett Ruess. Published in Slightly Foxed.

  • Spiritual Oases and Scorching Heat

    Spiritual Oases and Scorching Heat

    How travels in five countries shaped the writing of my debut novel. Published in WEXAS Traveller.

  • Sand and silence on Lithuania’s Curonian Spit

    Sand and silence on Lithuania’s Curonian Spit

    A winter exploration of an uncanny landscape where sand dunes swallow villages. Published in Guardian Travel.

  • A Darkening Terrain

    A Darkening Terrain

    How fiction can navigate loss, drawing on themes from ‘Loss Soup and Other Stories’. Published in Resurgence & Ecologist.

  • Peace and Fire

    Peace and Fire

    Tracing a 20th-century front line through landscapes newly scarred by 21st-century wildfires. Published in Dark Mountain.

  • Walking, War and Wildfires

    Walking, War and Wildfires

    Wildfires reveal the buried violence of Europe’s past on Slovenia’s Walk of Peace. For BBC Radio 4: From Our Own Correspondent.

  • Red Beer in Lviv

    Red Beer in Lviv

    A chaotic journey through Romania, Ukraine and Poland to the Tatra Mountains. Published in Intrepid Times.

  • Bulls and Scars

    Bulls and Scars

    On having my preconceptions destroyed in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley. Published in Dark Mountain and The Best British Travel Writing of the 21st Century.

  • Across Europe Ten Years On

    Across Europe Ten Years On

    A reflection on what has changed since my walk to Istanbul. For BBC Radio 4: From Our Own Correspondent.

  • Vertical Imperialism

    Vertical Imperialism

    Review of ‘The Hunt for Mount Everest’ by Craig Storti. Published in Literary Review.