Articles
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The Irascible, the Hot, the Cold and the Mad
The ill-tempered winds of the Mediterranean. Published in The Passenger.
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Heart of Ochre
An unearthly sparkle in the woods leads into a world of colour foraging and the politics of pigment. Published in Perspective.
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Pure Alchemy
My initiation into the endangered arts of bell-founding and metal-casting. Published in Perspective.
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I became a travel writer by accident…
How travel writing and fiction merged to produce Red Smoking Mirror. Published in The Irish Times.
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Moorish Ghosts
A jewel of the Islamic Golden Age, modern Córdoba has a legacy of cultural collisions. Published in Perspective.
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Enchanted Visions
Red Smoking Mirror, and how alternate history helps us imagine alternate futures. Published in Dark Mountain.
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Poor Souls: a hike on Aletsch, Europe’s largest glacier
Is walking on the melting Aletsch Glacier a kind of ‘last-chance tourism’? Published in Guardian Travel.
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The Weeping Woman
Great betrayer, or feminist icon? The amazing story of La Malinche, Nahua interpreter to Hernán Cortés. Published in Bookanista.
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Wilderness Years
The life and unsolved disappearance of the vagabond Everett Ruess. Published in Slightly Foxed.
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Spiritual Oases and Scorching Heat
How travels in five countries shaped the writing of my debut novel. Published in WEXAS Traveller.
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Sand and silence on Lithuania’s Curonian Spit
A winter exploration of an uncanny landscape where sand dunes swallow villages. Published in Guardian Travel.
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A Darkening Terrain
How fiction can navigate loss, drawing on themes from ‘Loss Soup and Other Stories’. Published in Resurgence & Ecologist.
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Peace and Fire
Tracing a 20th-century front line through landscapes newly scarred by 21st-century wildfires. Published in Dark Mountain.
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Walking, War and Wildfires
Wildfires reveal the buried violence of Europe’s past on Slovenia’s Walk of Peace. For BBC Radio 4: From Our Own Correspondent.
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Red Beer in Lviv
A chaotic journey through Romania, Ukraine and Poland to the Tatra Mountains. Published in Intrepid Times.
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Bulls and Scars
On having my preconceptions destroyed in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley. Published in Dark Mountain and The Best British Travel Writing of the 21st Century.
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Across Europe Ten Years On
A reflection on what has changed since my walk to Istanbul. For BBC Radio 4: From Our Own Correspondent.
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Vertical Imperialism
Review of ‘The Hunt for Mount Everest’ by Craig Storti. Published in Literary Review.

